Project Overkill: Explorer 2G Sound System

Project overkill started out as a basic add-a-sub setup. I wanted to keep my costs down so I took my daughter parts shopping so she would prevent me from "going crazy". That didn’t turn out too well as she ended up getting me to buy one of the more expensive head units among other things.

My original plan was to keep everything stock as much as possible. The existing deck wasn’t that bad but it was definitely underpowered. It lacked a lot of features specially the capability to play compressed (MP3) material. The existing speakers were regular paper cone pioneers and were definitely distorting at higher levels. At this level, one compromise I was willing to get was an RF-based CD changer. This would allow me an additional source of music as well as have the capability to play mp3’s recorded on cd/cdrw discs. However, after playing around and listening to a similar changer in another vehicle, I quickly decided this wasn’t good enough for me. The already compressed media further lost sound quality from being played through the radio system and no matter how good the RF transmitter is, it was always prone to receiving electrical noise and static.

After shopping around and looking at different brands and models, I decided to get an all Alpine system. The setup consisted of the following items:

1 x Alpine CDA9830 deck with MP3 playback
2 x Alpine SPR574A type-R 5x7" front speakers
2 x Alpine SPS570A type-S 5x7" rear speakers
2 x Alpine SWR1021D DVC type-R Dual 2-ohm 10” subwoofers
1 x Alpine MRP-M350 V-power Class-D mono amplifier
1 x Alpine MRP-F240 V-power 4/3/2 Channel amplifier
1 x Alpine Custom type-R anniversary edition vented subwoofer enclosure

The total for the system set me back around $4000 (2004 prices). All wirings and interconnects by Stinger. Sound deadening by Dynamat for various panels.


(Alpine Type-R DVC 1021D Magnet assembly and cast aluminum basket)






(Alpine SPS570A Speakers mounted behind OEM panel)


(Gold plated 4-Gauge battery terminals)

After a few days of use and break-in period for the speakers, I noticed that no matter how I adjusted the system, I could not seem to get the fronts as “bright” as I wanted them to be. I wanted a good and strong front soundstage without being harsh and metallic. I could not achieve enough front separation and the sound always seemed to be a bit muffled. I purchased universal plastic baffles and mini-enclosures for the 5x7 hoping that they would help. It seemed that the front alpines need more amplification for the sound the be clear enough.

Another complaint I had was the controls for the head unit. The deck had the trademark green alpine “chiclet” buttons. These work great in cars but a bit harder to use in a rougher riding truck. I also wanted to add a CD changer but the only available A1-net changer (CHA-S634) was a 6-disc unit which would add a few hundred dollars to the already high price tag.

Eventually I returned the head unit and the alpine fronts. I replaced the deck with a Sony CDXM8805. This unit had a motorized face and plain black when turned off for additional security. (The Kenwood m.a.s.k. series had a similar feature).


(Sony CDXM8805 front panel open)


(Sony CDXM8805 front panel folded)


(Sony CDXM8805 rear panel)

The front speakers were replaced with clarion SRC5795 plate speakers. These were cheaper speakers than the Alpines but they seemed to perform better. These speakers have a separate midrange and tweeter mounted on a plate sized to fit a 5x7 opening.


(Clarion Plate Speakers mounted on front door)

The new sony deck only had 52Wx4 (17W x 4 CEA) output. However, with digital equalization and sony’s proprietary DSO (dynamic soundstage organizer), the overall effect was amazing. It seems to be able to reposition the soundstage higher and toward the center of the dash electronically.

With this setup, the fronts appear to sound a lot clearer than with the previous external amplified setup. This meant that I could return the MRPF240 amp and rely on the Sony’s built-in amplifier. It may look like a step going the wrong direction but I felt the mids and highs were already at a suitable level for me even without the complication of an additional component.

The money I got back was sufficient to purchase a few additional parts. I got a Sony CD757MX 10-disc changer with mp3 playback. This is a bus-controlled changer and connects to the head unit via the sony-bus. I also got a Viper remote start and security system. So now, I can have 11 discs (one in the deck and 10 in the changer) with a few hundred mp3’s each. These should be more than adequate for extremely long rides and even if I had to carry additional discs, I would need only a few.


(10 disc changer with MP3 playback)


(Changer mounted inside center console)

The CD changer fits inside the center console. This makes changing the discs / cartridge while driving was an easy task.


(CD Changer 10-disc cartridge)

Perhaps the biggest advantage of the CDXM8805 is the ability to be controlled via remote instead on relying on the on-deck controls. The 8805 came with the standard card type remote control but I purchased a separate RM6XS controller. The RM6XS is a tactile / rotary Infra-red commander about the size of a golf ball and can be mounted anywhere within line-of-sight of the receiver. I have this mounted on the center console directly where my right hand would go when I have it on the arm rest.




(mounted on center console)

The final configuration for the sound system is as follows:

1 x Sony CDXM8805 head unit with MP3 playback and RM6XS rotary commander
1 x Sony CD757MX 10-disc CD changer with MP3 Playback
2 x Clarion SRC5795 5x7" front plate speakers
2 x Alpine SPS570A type-S 5x7" rear speakers
2 x Alpine SWR1021D DVC type-R Dual 2-ohm 10” subwoofers
1 x Alpine MRP-M350 V-power Class-D mono amplifier
1 x Alpine Custom type-R anniversary edition vented subwoofer enclosure

The overall sound was excellent. Loud, thumping and overpowering. I had the sub gain on the head unit at -3dB. The system is very loud at moderate volume level settings and one cannot definitely drive with the windows rolled up.


(Sound system as of March 2004)


(2 x dual voice coil @ 2 ohms each had to be wired in mixed-mode to obtain the optimum 2 ohm load for the single Alpine amplifier)


(2 Alpine type-R subwoofers in a custom Alpine anniversary edition enclosure)


(Alpine type-R subs with DUB grills)


(Alpine MRP350 mounted behind the subwoofer enclosure)

Update: Monitor, Video and DVD playback (2006)

This is originally part of project carputer as I needed an LCD display unit for the computer’s functions. My original parts requirement proved to be too pricey and I decided to go for a cheaper alternative. The result is a unit that could function as a standalone DVD player and external monitor.

I wanted video playback and did not want to get anything fancy. I wanted something functional yet removable. My solution came in the form of a Myron&Davis MP1607 DVD player and monitor mounted on the front console pocket. (One some 4-door models, this is where the trip computer usually resides). On the 2-door models, this space is generally unutilized so I decided to make a fiberglass holder/dock for the monitor. The dock allows the unit to be fully functional while allowing access to the cd loading tray and allows the viewing angle to be adjustable. The MP1607 has integrated speakers but it definitely sounds better when this sound is amplified through the existing sound system.


(Prototype cradle for the MP1607)







Temporarily, the audio output from the Myron&Davis MP1607 feeds through the sony bus audio by utilizing a Y-cable between the cd changer and the head unit. A music disc with a blank track (plays a track with 0 volume) activates the bus input and allows a second signal to piggy-back the connection. This is also currently the method I use to connect an external MP3 player or an Ipod. The CDXM8805 has an aux-lite channel but is only available if an optional cd changer is not connected. If there is anything connected to the sony bus, the aux-lite switches to a bus audio input connection.






(CDXM8805 on MP3-DVD Setting)


(CDXM8805 on AUX-MP3 Setting)


(Portable MP3 player connected. Ipod or music phone can also connect in the same manner)

Update path: Sony XA300. This device would allow input from different sources on a single bus connection. I’m wating for prices to drop or for someone to sell it cheap on eBay.

Project Carputer v1.0

When I first started this project, my plan was to have an all out computer system with a dashboard integrated touch screen monitor for control. This system would also serve as a replacement for the existing head unit yet at the same time still allow me to play mp3, videos, some games and basic windows applications.

During the planning stages of this project, the most ideal components comprised of the following: a xenarc or Lilliput 6.5" in dash touchscreen, a mini-ITX motherboard with on board CPU and at least 512MB of memory, a dc-to-dc power module and a portable wireless keyboard for additional text entry. After researching all the parts, the overall component cost came close to $1000. This was definitely more than what I was willing to spend for the setup.

I wanted a cheaper yet equally functional solution. A regular small screen video monitor and a mini-ATX motherboard in a custom housing seemed more viable. Power can be via a cheap (but less efficient) dc-ac inverter, and a wireless keyboard and mouse combo for control.

I obtained an asus A7V400MX mini ATX full featured motherboard with an athlon xp 2500 CPU and 512MB of PC2700 memory for about $50. I then got a small form factor case for another $50 and a 175W ac inverter from Radio shack for $35. An old AGP video card with s-video output, a 60GB 2.5" laptop hard drive with 3.5 IDE adaptor, a PCI wireless B card for connectivity and a mini wireless keyboard with integrated pointer for control.


(Asus A7V400 Mini-ATX Motherboard)

(Thermaltake volcano 9 cooler with modded heatsink and vantec low noise fan)

(AMD AthlonXP 2500 unlocked CPU and 512MB of PC2700 memory)

(Mini wireless RF keyboard with integrated pointing device)

Since the case was a little bigger than I originally planned, I decided to match the housing with the existing subwoofer enclosure assembly rather than hide it. This way, the setup would also be easily removable when needed.


(Plastic bezel pieces primered and ready for painting)


(Plastic trim pieces painted and polished)


(Front panel completely painted and assembled)

The pyle video monitor that I intended to purchase from London Drugs went out of stock. Fortunately, Canadian Tire had a Myron&Davis MP1607 on sale for $200. This was a bit more than what I intended to pay for the monitor but since the Myron&Davis could also double as a standalone DVD player, I may find other uses for it.



The Myron&Davis looks like any portable dvd player. The biggest difference is in the way it's hinged. On a regular dvd player the screen usually folds away when viewing . With the Myron&Davis the screen folds toward you during playback. This feature actually makes it perfect for the location that I intend to place it. The MP1607 can work as a fully portable dvd player with the purchase of an optional battery that connects to the bottom of the unit. It could also be used as a fold down monitor (like those found in minivans) with the purchase of an overhead dock. For my application, I made a custom receiver/dock out of plastic and fiberglass and molded it to the forward portion of the center console. The entire assembly (or just the monitor) can be removed if necessary.





Control switches and indicator LEDs were replicated on the vehicle dashboard by means of a male-female 25 pin plug and a 15' run of cable. Control comes in the form of an RF wireless mini keyboard. General functions have been mapped to certain keys for simplicity.





A touchscreen monitor would have been more convenient so that a more integrated software solution such as RoadRunner, Centrafuse, Mediacar etc., could have been used. The system works as expected and with the exception of a small screen, visibility has been acceptable. Viewing Office applications or documents on the small screen is almost unbearable. Playing graphics intensive games is impossible.




(Carputer installed beside the subwoofer enclosure)


(Carputer under the roll-up cargo cover)

Within a few weeks of installation, the system lost its novelty. While it did afford a more integrated solution to my needs, usage is actually a bit more cumbersome. There is really no practical use for the system since most of the functions have been taken over by other more specialized devices.

1. Diagnostics- standalone portable ODBII code reader, programmer and tuner
2. Communication - plugin V3 bluetooth handfree(to be upgraded)
3. Navigation - external portable Garmin C330 GPS
4. MP3 playback - Sony 8805 deck plays mp3s on cdr/rw; CDMX757 plays mp3s on 10 cdr/cdrw; ipod (and other player) connectivity; Myron&Davis plays mp3s on dvd -/+ or cdrs
5. Movie and picture playback - ipod can play slideshow viewable on M&D MP1607. The 1607 can also play dvd movies directly. It can also function as a monitor for viewing movies from portable divx sources
6. Other computing needs - any laptop or a netbook (mini laptop)


(MP1607 in DVD playback mode)


(MP1607 in MP3 playback mode)

Project Explorer: Blue Instrument Lights

The replacement headunit for the Explorer is a Sony CDX8805 unit. This has a fluorescent blue full motion display with blue LED lighting. It looks really good and modern and I decided to make the dash and other interior lights follow the same scheme. Unfortunately, this was easier said than done. Most of the interior lighting (dashboard switches, door locks and window switches all had enclosed bulbs or really small bulbs that are really difficult to replace. Furthermore, the green OEM lighting was not dependent on the bulb. The light housings had a form of colored coating that rendered the color. The only solution was to remove or scratch off this film.



Instead of dismantling the gauges, I wanted to make sure that my experiment would work. I obtained the gauge faces from a dismantling yard. The Ford OEM gauges are basically composed of the mechanical and electrical assembly topped with a thin plastic overlay. These overlays have the calibrated markings for either metric (kilometers per hour) or US Miles per hour. Under normal lighting conditions with 168 or 194 bulbs, the resulting color is the OEM green.



Replacing the bulbs with blue LED's or blue-coated incandescent bulbs did not result in a change of color. In most cases, it just grew dimmer but still showed a very faint shade of green. In this picture the blue lighting was simulated using a bright blue neon tube. The output from the neon tube was significantly more than a standard LED, therefore even the brightest 168 compatible replacement LED will give an even dimmer result.



The overlay has a thin white film coating on the underside. Using a craft knife with a rounded blade, the coating was carefully scraped off to reveal the underlying clear layer. The black outline on the picture shows the area that needs to be removed.



Here is a side by side comparison of the odometer area where the coating has been scraped off. In comparison, the speedometer area on the right side has not been modified yet. Bright light on the underside is used to simulate OEM lighting. With the green coating removed, any light will now show through the gauge overlay.



The final results show the blue light shining through the overlay as expected. The only remaining step would be to replace the existing overlays with these modified ones.