Project Lowbucks I: Eclipse 2G Sound System

With the recent increase in gasoline prices I decided to start a good, reliable and economical project car. I was trying to decide between getting a domestic (2003 Ford Cougar) or a more common import tuner platform, a second generation Mitsubishi Eclipse (commonly referred to as a 2G). After a bit of research, I decided against the Ford due to scarcity of aftermarket parts and performance accessories for this discontinued model.

After a local search, I noticed that the 2G Eclipse was a lot more expensive on this side of the border. Fortunately, I came across a local used car dealer that imports these cars directly from the U.S. and takes care of all the necessary paperwork, modifications and Canadian certifications. Visiting his lot, I found at least half a dozen 2G and 3G models to pick from. I chose the cheapest one he had, a 1997 RS with a 2.0 liter 420a Chrysler-made engine. Body and paint were in fair shape. Engine was clean and the undercarriage and suspension were in excellent condition. The car was originally registered in California (latest registration date was April 2007)so I knew that it won't be difficult to have it pass local emissions testing (Aircare). I eventually bought the car and bought some missing plastic trim pieces from a local dismantling yard (Ralph's Wrecking). Everything else in the car was in good shape so I was good to go !


(1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 NA/NT FWD)

Enter project Lowbucks:

Since the Eclipse I got was base model, it originally came from the factory with the most basic sound system. Having a more than adequate sound system on my other vehicle as a point of comparison, I knew I had to upgrade. The car came with the base OEM casette player and partially blown paper cone speakers.



Crutchfield and Futureshop recommended 6.5 inch front and rear speakers. After a lot of measuring, I found that the RS door panels will only take 5.25 inch speakers. A bigger and generally taller 6.5 will not fit under the stock grill. I found a set of 5.25 inch JVC CHSHX-535 on sale at Beam Riders for $50




(The new JVC's behind the OEM door panel)

Shopping around I found 6X9 speakers at Best Buy for under $80. A pair of Pioneer TS-A6962R were on sale and online research had pretty good reviews on these speakers. Even though Crutchfield recommended only 6.5 speakers, I was sure I would be able to fit these speakers without any major issues. After modifying the plastic speaker pods, I was able to install the Pioneers under the OEM panel.




(The Pioneers behind the OEM rear grills)

A 10-inch subwoofer is enough for the hatchback Eclipse so after picking up a Rockford Fosgate Punch P110S4 for $65 at Best Buy and studying the specs, I got a Pioneer GM3300T amplifier from Canadian Tire for $130.





I chose the relatively low powered Pioneer amp since it actually matched the optimal amplification requirements of the P1 sub. The amp was also small enough to fit in various locations and the design is simple and uncluttered.



So now, the only thing missing is a head unit. I wanted a deck that would match the eclipse's color scheme. OEM lighting is reddish-orange and while there are a lot of units where the color display could be changed, I also wanted a simple and easy to use design. I found a couple of cheap Sony units for under $100 but they did not have all the features I wanted. Eventually after more research, the CDX-GT400 seemed to be perfect. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued and replaced by another model (GT420 series). A local Canadian tire still had a demo unit on display and I asked if they would sell it to me. I got the unit for $150 (which is a lot more than what I was expecting to pay), but at least it had all the features I wanted. It had decent amplification at 52 Watts X 4 (17 Watts X 4 CES specifications) which I believed was adequate to drive the front and rear speakers. I was going to try this setup first and then install an additional amplifier if needed.


(The main display can be set to any of 7 colors, the button illumination is always red)



After establishing that I won't be using a second amp for the project, I purchased an 8 gauge Scosche wiring kit from Walmart for about $30. This had all the components needed to connect a single amp (up to 1000W). The existing dashboard layout was also kind enough to accept a new headunit without the need for a stereo installation kit. The existing stereo wiring wasn't up to snuff, and I wasn't planning or reinstalling the old deck so I decided to hardwire the Sony deck. Connections were crimped, soldered and protected with heatshrink tubing.

The final design element for the subwoofer and amplifier assembly was the enclosure. I decided to design my own instead of buying a generic box. I had more than enough 0.75 inch birch plywood so I contructed a sealed 1.2 cubic inch central box flanked by 2 compartments on either side. One side would house the amp while the other side would be a storage compartment for tools and other stuff. The main enclosure had 0.75 inch sidewalls and a 1.5 inch baffle board. Everything was double braced, glued, screwed, caulked(non-silicone)and filled with about a pound of polyester fiberfill.


(Sealed enclosure covered with automotive grade gray carpet)


(Mitsubishi tri-diamond as an added detail)


(Small cutout to show blue LED from amplifier when switched on)



One consideration that had to be made when constructing the box was functionality and access to the spare tire compartment. After carefully measuring and cutting the thin wood floor cover in half and installing hinges, I was able to have full access to the spare even though the subwoofer box assembly was completely bolted into place.



The finished box still permits the rear parcel panel to be lowered in stock position. This allows all the goodies to be hidden when viewed through the hatch glass. Further, there is still ample usable space in the trunk.







Total cost for the project was under $550. These prices are based on Canadian retail prices as of June 2007. My original target was to hit under $500 so I wasn't too far off.



(System Diagram as of July 2007)



Summary:

Considering the cost of parts and compromises made, I was actually surprised at how the system performed. The amplifier delivered a maximum of 300W X 1 @ 4Ω. The sub is rated at 300W peak / 150W nominal. The sound output was more than adequate. Loud enough to rattle body panels at higher volumes yet not overpowering. This is a setup that enhances sound reproduction inside the cabin. This was not designed to be heard a mile down the road. If you were sitting inside the car, the sound is more than satifying throughout the spectrum. The added plus was that the deck is capable of playing mp3 recorded on a cdr/cdrw. It also has a front stereo input jack to connect any external player as well as provisions for a sony-bus cd or md changer such as a 10 disc CDX-757MX.


(Deck in Aux Front-in mode with a generic MP3 player connected)


(Deck in Aux Front-in mode with allowing MP3 playback from a music player phone)


Update: (July 2008)

I obtained a brand new Sony XA-110IP from Ebay for $20 (shipped). This is a bus adapter that connects to the cd changer port and allows the Sony deck to control most ipods with a dock connector. When activated, the head unit is capable of playing and sorting through the ipod contents (playlists, albums, artists). The front mounted input is generally adequate but the XA-110IP allows an ipod to be connected, controlled and best of all, hidden. I have a 4th Gen 30GB connected and serves as a repository for all my mp3s.




(When active, Ipod displays "OK to disconnect")


(Ipod secured in center console)


(Headunit displays "PD1 Portable" in Ipod mode)

Project Eclipse: Functional upgrades

The RS model is very basic. There is always room for some improvement. In the span of a few months since the car was purchased, a few functional improvements have been made. (Prices in Canadian dollars and current between of July 2007 to July 2008)

1. Power door locks and keyless entry

This was accomplished during the initial sound system installation phase. With the panels were removed, it seem to be a good time to install electric door lock solenoids and remote release. I obtained a complete set from eBay for about $45. The added bonus to the generic kit I obtained is that it allows the fob to be integrated with the key.



2. Power trunk / hatch release solenoid

The remote keyless receiver has provisions for a third channel to operate anything (from lights to trunk release). A $25 remote trunk kit from eBay proved sufficient.



3. GS/GST center console assembly

The RS came with a basic open console without an arm rest. The GS/GST console included a padded armrest as well as other hidden storage spaces (perfect for an ipod). I obtained one from eBay for $40



4. Seat belt positioner

I borrowed this idea from the Spyder model which has a loop to position the front seatbelts. These loops mount on the headrest posts and aligns the belts better for the front passengers. Unfortunately I could not a Spyder donor vehicle so I obtained a pair from a Pontiac sunfire and modded the holes to fit / align with those of the Eclipse



5. Upper front, rear upper and lower stress bars

Many will argue as to the functionality of the front bar for the eclipse (lack of triangulated support). The rear bars, however, add a noticeable amount of improvement to chassis stiffness. A chassis that flexes less during cornering provides better handling.
Made of thick-walled aluminum tube with welded steel brackets and bolt adjusters, these were obtained from eBay for about $75 for the entire 3-piece set


(Front upper stress bar installed)


(Rear upper stress bar installed between shock towers. The tower access covers have been modified slightly)


(Rear lower suspension tie bar installed)

6. Front fog lamps

The stock eclipse bumper has openings for fog lamps / driving lights. OEM style replacement lights for the eclipse go for about $200 dollars up. I found a generic set from a dismantling yard for $10 and modified it to fit into the stock location. The plastic inserts were also modified and custom brackets were made to hold the assemblies in place. The lights I got look blue when turned off yet produce a bright yellow fog light beam when on. The aim here was to make it look stock.






7. Better low beams

Daytime running lights or DRLs are required in Canada. One thing I noticed with the car was that the low beams seemed a little bit more dim than average. At first I though the aftermarket DRL controller that was installed in the vehicle for Canadian certification was not providing full voltage (Some DRL's run at only 75% and then go to full power when the headlights are switched on). I obtained a pair of NRG Synergy Optics 55W 9006 bulbs from ebay for $10. They provided a much whiter light but not too white to blind incoming traffic. When I removed the existing bulbs, I noticed that they were only 51W Stanleys.



8. Video Backup Camera

Canadian tire had the newer model VR3 wireless rear view camera on sale for $75. This had the bigger 3.5 screen and a license plate mounted camera assembly. The camera picks up power from the reverse lights and the display unit mounts anywhere in front and can be powered via the cigarette lighter or hardwired. The disadvantage to wireless mode is that the monitor works in the 2.4GHz frequency. This means that it picks up "noise" from various devices including microwaves ovens, cordless phones, internet routers, bluetooth headsets and even security cameras. An alternate way for the monitor to receive a trigger signal from the camera is a direct connection. This is accomplished by a 15 foot patch cable (1/8 to 1/8 inch stereo cable) running between the camera and the monitor. With this method, the monitor receives trigger signal and power directly from the camera.



Finding a place for the monitor was a bit tricky. I did not want it cluttering the dash so I modified the parcel shelf under the Sony deck to accept the monitor assembly. The monitor is sunk into the shelf about 5 inches deep into the dash and at an angle. This way, it is almost unnoticeable when not in use but completely visible when activated.





Visibility with the camera is excellent even in extremely dark and poorly lit or rainy conditions.

9. Front Tow Ring

The Eclipse's front bumper is quite low even with stock tires and suspension. While this looks good, it is very common to hit and scrape the Eclipse's front clip at most commercial parking lots that have concrete parking curb bumpers. To prevent this, I wanted some sort of "armor". I figured that one of those tow hooks mounted horizontally under the bumper should do the trick. The hook does not need to be functional for towing but will serve as a bump guard and hit the parking curbs first. A quick look at eBay and I found a couple of aluminum universal hooks for $75. While they seem to be good and sturdy, that price is too much for the purpose that I have in mind.

A quick trip to home depot and I got a 6 inch diameter cast iron plumbing flange, a 12 inch reinforcement bar and 2 short bolts for about $7. After cutting off the central threaded portion of the flange with a dremel, I bolted it to the bar. A quick spray with primer and some flat black paint and I have my mock towing ring. Cheap, simple and easily replaced if needed.



10. Leatherette seat covers

The RS has cloth seats. Very plain. I wanted to change the color and see how black seats would look with the gray interior. I purchased a set of leatherette semi-custom fit seat covers from eBay for about $45. (It also came with 4 piece floormats that I'm keeping as spare). My original intention was to purchase real leather replacement covers for all the seat surfaces if I liked what I saw. Unfortunately, I only kept the seat covers on for a few months and just gave the existing upholstery a thorough cleaning.


(Partially visible is the original RS center console without the arm rest)

Project Eclipse: Cosmetic upgrades

Some will refer to purely cosmetic upgrades as being "Ricey" or useless. My objective here is for the car not to stand out. Everybody wants to do a little customization - much like putting a different faceplate on a cellphone. A little personalization. No bling.

1. Aluminum Pedal Overlays

I didn't want these to be too flashy. Simple covers for the gas, brake, clutch and dead pedal. Bolted through the oem pedals instead of clipped on. Home made from 3mm flat aluminum stock.





2. Stainless Steel Dash Overlay

The RS came with plain all black analog gauges. A simple stamped stainless steel overlay accentuates the gauges and complements the pedals. Purchased from eBay for about $15. Fits perfect. Mounts with double side tape and easily removable.



3. Machined Aluminum Hand brake cover

Slip on universal aluminum hand brake cover with Carbon fiber boot. I purchased this from eBay for about $25. Ractive brand. The original rubberized hand brake cover had to be removed or modified.



4a. Weighted shifter and short shift assembly

Ractive stainless steel pear-shaped weighted shifter. Polished gunmetal finish. A homemade short throw shifter and shift improvement kit completed this setup for more firmer shifts. A short-throw shortens shift distance by about 30%, considerably lowers the height of the shifter arm but also increases required shifting effort. The weighted shifter (about 450 grams) compensates for this. Got the shifter from eBay brand new for about $15.



The shift improvement kit came in the form of machined aluminum inserts to replace the soft rubber bushings. They provide really crisp and positive shifts. Although they can be considered as a functional upgrade, they do not really seem that necessary for everyday driving unless you really slam the shifter when changing gears. Plus they have the drawback of transmitting more road noise through the shift column.



4b. Shifter handle and shift boot

Even though the ractive weighted shifter works really well, it doesn't match with the hand brake cover. After much searching on eBay, I could not find a matching model to the hand brakd cover. Eventually, I gave in and bought a Ractive brand mini-ball (momo style) machined aluminum shifter and boot from Canadian tire for $50. This complements the existing hand brake cover and also comes with the same carbon fiber looking shift boot.



5. Exhaust Tip

The Eclipse's rear bumper has a very large cutout for the exhaust pipe. This makes the actual tailpipe look really small in relation to the vehicle. To compensate and to lend a more finished look, a polished stainless steel Ractive brand exhaust tip was added. I got this from Canadian tire for $20 (box missing and regularly priced at $60). Oval opening. Clamp on. Folded lip with Ractive logo.



6. Driving lights and mesh grill

Normally these can be considered as functional upgrades but you may have noticed that I have already installed small foglights in the stock location. Being yellow, however, they are pretty much useless during everyday driving. The regular headlamps are sufficient most of the time (city driving) but they can be insufficient for highway driving or in totally unlit backroads. Highbeams work but they are not usually focused where you want the light to be. A pair of regular halogen lamps are the best option. They are cheap and they "fill" the void behind the license plate. Additionally, I have installed a sheet metal mesh grill at this location. This makes the additional driving lights less noticeable when turned off thereby not making the front of the vehicle too "busy". Driving lights were obtained from eBay for $15. Mesh grill is standard galvanized 1/2 inch expanded steel (from Home Depot), cut to fit and painted black.





Update: The rectangular driving lamps have been replaced with 4.5" round driving lights. These were again purchased through eBay for about $25. The round lights complement the existing round foglights. The "rice" part of this change is that the new lights also come with a built-in neon trim ring that can cycle between 7 colors. The ring is purely decorative and is totally useless. The new lights produce a much superior beam over the flat rectangular lens installed previously.


(LED ring can be set to any of 7 colors including red, blue, white, green)



7. Dummy Rear Disk Brakes

Pending the rear disc conversion, I found a set of disc brake simulators from eBay for $5. This has got to be the "ricest" and most useless accessory for the Eclipse. The disc were aluminum anodized in cobalt blue but a quick run with a sanding disc and a wire brush brought out the raw aluminum. I left it uncoated so it will weather and tarnish normally just like a regular disc.